A Very Russian Weekend

I love the Russians. They are incredible: so kind, fun-loving, funny and warm. While it was evident to me from the beginning that they are special, this last weekend I realized just how wonderful these people are. I was invited by a girl from my class to go hiking with her family. Of course, I jumped at the opportunity to get back out in the woods. I found myself, once again, driving through the stunning Fall forests of the Primorsky region. Sveta and her parents were kind while they patiently listened to my baby-talk Russian and tried to help me understand more. Our friend Maddy, from Australia, came too and so we sat and talked the whole two hours to the foot of the mountain.
We arrived at about nine in the morning and met up with the group we were to hike with. There was a young couple, whose anniversary we were all celebrating that weekend, and their son. The couple's parents and three other couples were also there. It was a fun group, and they were thrilled when I tried to speak Russian. We set off immediately for the mountain (another steep and long climb).
To get to the trail we first hiked through a ski resort. I was fascinated. It was a tiny little ski area with some cabins and a cafe way out in the mountains. We actually spent the night in one of those cabins. There was one chair lift and one run. Not much of a ski area by our standards, but I loved it. It made me think back to all the happy trips to Mt. Hood in the mighty Subaru, with our thermos of hot chocolate and Johnny Cash cassette tape. I hope I can go skiing there this winter. To make things even more fun, there was a race going on. Contestants ran to the top of the mountain and back, then did some mountain biking. We were dodging the participants the whole way up.
It was another stunning hike, as the leaves were at their peak of color. When we took short breaks we would go and find the giant pine cones, crack them open and eat the nuts. They were wonderful raw. This trip we hiked much slower, Sveta and I staying with Maddy, as she was sick to begin with, and hiking up a mountain wasn't helping her. We still managed to have a good time. While the hike didn't help Maddy, it did wonders for me and I plagued my poor Australian friend with horrible jokes and "inspirational songs." She enjoyed it though, and soon we were both singing"Old McDonald," mimicking each other's accents and making quite the racket. Trying to translate some of jokes was a challenge, and just me trying to speak in Russian made Sveta laugh.
On top of the mountain we had lunch, boiling water for noodle bowls and instant potatoes. The way back down was an interactive Russian lesson with Sveta. We talked in Russian while we slipped and tumbled our way down the slicktrail. Everyone fell at least once. We even tried sliding down one stretch on Maddy's jacket.
Everyone was happy to be back, and from the top of the ski run we could see the celebration going on for the end of the race. A small disco party took up the road to our cabin, and a makeshift podium for the winners sat to the side.
The cabin though: it was the coolest little place. It was a tall, skinny building, with three floors and a compact floor plan. There was a kitchen and bathroom on the bottom floor (with a flushing toilet, thank goodness), with a few bunks and a table for eating at. The second floor, where most of us slept, was filled with one giant bunk bed and some beds made under the rafters. There was a small attic space above this that could sleep two. Maddy, Sveta and I squeezed into one bunk on the second floor, and spent quite a bit of time up there, talking and laughing.
I talked mainly in Russian the entire weekend, even with Maddy as she is very fluent. She translated for me when I needed it, but I was surprised by how much I was understanding. I really enjoyed it, talking with people, following conversations and being able to laugh at jokes because I understood them. It helped that everyone was very patient, and nothing but encouraging. Of course, I caused a lot of the laughter with my mistakes and horrible grammar, but I learned so much at the same time.
That evening was very special. I got to go to the Bannya. The Bannya is basically a Russian Sauna. This one was in a small cabin behind ours. When we entered I instantly started to sweat. We were in a small room made of cedar planks, with some benches, and a table. There was a small area for rinsing with a cold water spigot. Everyone changed in this room, putting on swimsuits and special shoes and hats. Then we entered the Bannya...
I pulled open the heavy wooden door cautiously and ducked in. That's when the heat hit me like a blast furnace. I felt like I was choking and every time I inhaled my throat and nose burned. The room was small, and almost completely black, because there was only one tiny light. In one corner was the stove radiating heat so intense that when I went near it my skin felt cold with numbness. I sat on a bench next to Sveta, and counted, because I had promised her I'd sit there for at least one hundred seconds.
I lost count after fifty because I found I rather enjoyed it. I adjusted a little bit to the heat and it felt like a heavy blanket, so thick I could almost snuggle into it. I sweated until it ran down the backs of my legs. I couldn't figure out why, but it was amazing, and felt so good. After about two minutes Sveta and I ducked out and went outside with a bowl of ice-cold water. I had heard about the whole Hot-Cold thing, so I prepared myself for some splashing. She got me with the whole bucket and I screeched with the shock. Sveta laughed, but I got her back with a refill.
So it continued like that: Bannya, bucket of ice water, Bannya, bucket of ice water...  In the winter, Sveta said they run out, roll in the snow, then run back in. I managed three rounds of the Bannya, and got many congratulations, and"well-done's" from people. I felt pretty weak and light-headed after the third go-around, but I had enjoyed it immensely. Not because of the heat maybe, but just sitting there with the Russians, listening to them talk, thinking about how old this tradition was. What's more Russian than going to the Bannya? Drinking Vodka? That came next.
After returning from the Bannya, everyone sat around a low table on the second floor. They toasted many times with glasses of Vodka, and ate bread, cheese and sardines. Someone had brought shisha, a type of tobacco that is burned on a tall stand and smoked through a tube. The mouthpiece was passed around the table, each person taking a few puffs. They were very interested in America and Australia, and we talked for hours. They asked Maddy and I to sing a song, and I joined her in "Waltzing Matilda." They sang us a song and we talked, and talked. Sveta and I went to bed at around midnight, but when I woke up at 2:30am for some water, I could still hear them laughing and talking.Did I mention? I love the Russians.